By: Lacie Lee DVM

“Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. It’s not.
-The Lorax-

So, you’ve had the pleasure of being gifted a tiny kitten to raise. With this comes many responsibilities and milestones that you will have the pleasure of experiencing from this moment until he or she is ready to find a forever home. Before you take your kitten home, assess its overall health with a veterinarian familiar with pediatric care. Young kittens, especially in the first week of life, are often found cold (hypothermic), weak (hypoglycemic), dehydrated, and sometimes hypoxemic (low oxygen).

Young neonates without mom are very prone to infections; inspect your kitten’s overall appearance, paying special attention to the umbilicus region or umbilical cord. Look for signs of blood, swelling, discharge, or trauma anywhere on your kitten. If you suspect any of these, get them to a veterinarian for critical care. You can begin to warm them yourself while headed to the hospital.

Holding them close to your skin while wrapped in a warm blanket, or simply drying them with a warm towel if found wet, are safe methods of warming them. Heating pads, water bottles, heat lamps, and the like can be dangerous to young neonatal skin if not carefully applied. My general rule is: if it is too warm to lay across your arm for at least fifteen seconds, then it is too warm for your kitten’s skin. If you are going to use a heat source, pay close attention and provide a blanket or towel between the kitten and the heat, then proceed to your veterinarian for critical care.

*Never force a cold kitten to eat, they do not have a suckle reflex or a good swallow reflex and will aspirate. Your veterinarian will warm them, provide care, then begin to feed via stomach tube until a suckle reflex is present.

Now your new kitten appears healthy and ready to go home! Here are some developmental milestones to help you age your kitten. Consider taking in and caring for another orphan kitten of similar age as developmental alongside littermates is an integral part of your kitten’s wellbeing.

Aging your Kitten

  • Umbilical cord usually falls off around 3 days of age
  • Eyelids open around 10 days of age (range is 2-16 days).
  • Ear canals open 9 days of age (range 6-17 days).
  • Normal vision is around 30 days of age.
  • Crawling begins 7-14 days.
  • Walking begins 14-21 days.
  • Voluntary elimination begins about 3 weeks of age.
  • Baby incisors/canines - 3-4 weeks of age.
  • Baby premolars - 5-6 weeks of age.
  • Ability to shiver - 1 week of age.
  • Homeothermic (Can regulate own body temperature without a heat source) - 4 weeks of age.

Weighing and Logging Your Kitten's Schedule

Body weight is an important sign of overall health in your kitten. It is also a good indication of how well you are meeting your kitten’s requirements for growth. You will want to have a gram scale on hand to weigh your kitten twice daily. Kittens should gain 10–15 grams per day. Often, the first sign of illness is no weight gain over a 24-hour period. Newborn kittens will double their birth weight in the first 7–10 days of life.

I use a postal gram scale to keep track of a kitten’s weight twice daily. Keep a journal to record twice-daily weights in grams, as well as any other observations you may notice about your kitten’s appearance or behavior. Don’t hesitate to call your veterinarian if something feels off. Use your intuition with these little ones — waiting even a day can be life or death.

Housing and bedding for your kitten

  • Provide a dry, safe enclosure with a heat source for warmth. An incubator is best. If one is not available, you may use a small plastic top-loader–style kennel or enclosure for neonates up to about 3–4 weeks of age. I like this style of carrier because it provides a draft-free, safe environment that is easy to clean. Humidity for these little ones should be maintained around 55–65% to help prevent dehydration and decrease the risk of bacterial growth and infection.
  • Feliway plug-ins in their room have been shown to be calming and to decrease stress. The two most stressful periods in an orphan kitten’s life are week 1 and weeks 4–5 (weaning).
  • Clean their bedding daily, and more often if it becomes wet or soiled. Wipe the kennel or container clean daily as well.
  • Provide a heat source that allows the kitten to choose whether to be on it or away from it. Always ensure there is a towel or blanket between the heat source and the kitten. If I feel the warmth is not evenly distributed, I will add a small microwavable kitten bean bag. Be careful not to place this in direct contact with the kitten’s skin. I place it underneath a blanket.
  • Always keep kittens safe from other household pets, as they do not yet have adequate immunity.
  • I move kittens into a larger box or cage around 4 weeks of age to begin introducing a litter box. I often start with kitten-attract litter in a shallow container; a small baking tray or even a paper plate works well.
  • Clean the litter box often! It is messy!

Kitten Hygiene

  • Clean your kitten daily with a soft, moist, warm washcloth. Make sure they are completely dry afterward.
  • Until your kitten is about 3 weeks old and able to urinate and defecate on its own, you will need to stimulate elimination at each feeding. Use a soft tissue with a small amount of mineral oil on it, or a cotton ball works well too. Gently rub the perineal area (where the genitals are) from front to back with the cotton ball. Kitten urine should be very dilute, not dark yellow, and more like water. Stool should be yellowish, and consistency depends largely on formula choice. Sometimes it takes longer to stimulate a bowel movement, so continue gently and use fresh cotton balls as needed. A kitten should urinate at each feeding, but depending on the formula used, it may not defecate every time.
  • Keep your kitten’s bottom clean and dry. You may use a small amount of Desitin, Boudreaux’s Butt Paste, vitamin E oil, or Aquaphor if the genital area becomes inflamed from loose stool or urine. Keep this area as clean as possible.
  • If your kitten has fleas, you can give a warm Dawn bath and remove fleas manually with a flea comb. Alternatively, Frontline spray applied to a cotton ball and gently rubbed onto the kitten is approved for use in young kittens. Be sure the kitten is completely dry after either method. Do treat fleas promptly, as fleas can be dangerous to kittens and their delicate cardiovascular systems.
  • Clean the kitten’s eyes daily with a warm tissue or cotton ball to promote healthy tear flow and prevent buildup of discharge and infection. It is normal to see clear to mildly mucous discharge at the corners of the eyes. Simply keep them clean. If you notice green discharge or swelling of the eyes, see your veterinarian as soon as possible. Pay close attention to the eyes even before they open. Swelling beneath the eyelids is often a sign of infection and requires immediate treatment.
  • Check the umbilicus and genital areas daily, especially the male kitten’s penis, for signs of infection or littermates nursing on one another if there are multiple kittens. This behavior can be dangerous and even life-threatening, particularly for male kittens. If you notice this behavior, you will need to separate the littermates during the day. They can be reunited periodically as long as the behavior does not resume. Ensure the kittens are well fed, as this behavior can sometimes be a sign of hunger. I will also place a stuffed animal between kittens, which can sometimes redirect and reduce nursing behavior.
  • If you notice any skin lesions or patterns of hair loss, please have your kitten examined by a veterinarian.
  • Deworming should be performed using kitten-safe dewormers at approximately 2, 4, and 6 weeks of age. Your veterinarian is an excellent resource for guidance on this.

Feeding your Kitten

The stomach capacity of a kitten is usually 4–5 mls per 100 grams, or 3.5 ounces, of body weight. This doesn’t seem like much, but it is plenty for these young kittens. There are many formulas, nursers, and ways to feed your orphan kitten. I will share mine below. These are general guidelines, and I do vary formula options and feeding intervals from kitten to kitten.

My preferred method is the Miracle Nipple (see below) on a syringe. These have pre-slit holes in the nipple. It is very important that the size of the hole in the nipple not be too large, yet not too small, to prevent frustration. A good rule of thumb is that when held upside down, milk should NOT flow freely, yet with a gentle squeeze, a drop should be released.

As the kitten ages and the amount per feeding increases, I will transition from the Miracle Nipple to a standard kitten PetAg small pet bottle.

  • Upon arrival, assess the kitten and do your best to determine when its last meal may have been. If the kitten is warm, rooting around, and has a suckle reflex, you can begin to feed. I always start with dextrose and water or very dilute formula (at least diluted by 50%) for the first one or two feedings. This helps get the intestines moving again, as they will slow to stasis if a kitten has not eaten in several hours or was found hypothermic (cold).
  • Never force a kitten to eat by squeezing a bottle or pressing the plunger on a syringe. A healthy kitten with a good suckle reflex will be able to feed on their own. I begin with syringes attached to a Miracle Nipple for small animals (I will share photos at the end of all my supplies). In kittens less than a week old, I use a 3 ml syringe. I replace them often, as cleaning can cause the plunger to become harder for the kitten to move with a suckle reflex.
  • Be patient. It sometimes takes these little ones a while to get the hang of feeding. They are just as confused as you are and miss their mom. To get them started, I will squeeze a tiny drop out of the nipple onto their tongue. Often, once they taste the formula, they will begin to nurse.
  • Choose a commercially available kitten milk replacer and follow the directions on the bottle or container closely. Clean bottles, nipples, and syringes after each feeding to keep bacteria levels down. Remember, many of these kittens do not have strong immunity from their mother. Store formula between feedings in the refrigerator or cooler. Do not make your own formula. These kittens need a wide range of proteins and micronutrients that are nearly impossible to replicate with homemade recipes.
  • Sometimes powdered formulas can cause constipation, while premade liquid formulations may cause diarrhea. You may need to alternate formulas or add extra water to powdered forms to aid stool passage, or dilute premade liquid formulas with water to decrease richness and reduce diarrhea. At times, I will dilute premade liquid formulas by as much as 50% until stools begin to form. If stool quality does not improve, I will switch to a powdered formulation. This is not uncommon and often varies from kitten to kitten.
  • When a kitten is full, it will push away the bottle, syringe, or nipple and may form bubbles around the mouth. Do not force them to eat. Let a healthy kitten guide you. They often know what is best for them. When properly fed and stimulated to urinate and defecate, kittens will usually have full, round bellies and fall asleep. Sometimes they will purr. The purr is a universal form of communication between mother cats and their kittens. Mothers typically do not meow at their kittens and reserve vocalization for communicating needs to humans.
  • If a kitten is stressed due to hunger, cold, absence of the queen, or another issue, it may crawl around the box crying or move side to side in a searching motion. This is your signal to act. The kitten may be cold, need comfort, need to eat, need to urinate or defecate, or may require veterinary attention. Otherwise, kittens are usually content being snuggled in blankets in their nesting box until the next feeding.
  • I always take a moment to love on my kittens at each feeding and help them become accustomed to human touch as soothing, loving, and protective. This does not take long but should be done often throughout the day. Allow others to hold your kitten as well, just remind them to wash their hands beforehand.
  • Feeding intervals are important. Here are my general guidelines: 
  1. One week of age or less: every 2–3 hours maximum, most often every 2 hours, including throughout the night
  2. Two to three weeks of age: every 3 hours; closer to three weeks, I begin extending nighttime intervals to 4 hours
  3. Three to four weeks of age: every 4–6 hours, depending on the kitten’s size and the amount consumed at each feeding
  • Feeding intervals may need to be adjusted from kitten to kitten. If you are feeding too frequently, kittens may drink less per feeding and develop diarrhea. Try increasing the interval slightly to see if stool quality improves. I do not extend feedings beyond 3 hours during the first week of life. Kittens generally do best with small amounts given often.
  • Do not hesitate to contact your veterinarian if you are unsure about anything related to your kitten’s behavior or feeding.
  • Keep all bottles and feeding supplies properly cleaned. During the first week of life, I sterilize my supplies daily by boiling them in water for a few minutes.
  • Refrigerate any leftover formula between feedings and warm it to room temperature before feeding. Do not feed cold formula, as it can lower a kitten’s body temperature and may discourage nursing. I use a cup of warm water to gently warm syringes or bottles.
  • Most orphan kittens are ready to begin weaning once they develop teeth, typically around 4 weeks of age.

Weaning

  • Weaning will begin around 4 weeks of age. This process requires patience, diligence, calmness, and cleanliness.
  • It is messy - there is just no way around that!
  • There are many ways to wean kittens. No single method is best, and ultimately the kitten will guide you in terms of readiness and willingness. Just be patient with yourself and the kitten.
  • Here are a few steps in the process that I use:
  1. When the kitten has teeth and begins to use its mouth more in a biting manner versus a suckling manner, this is my sign that it is time to wean.
  2. I prefer a shallow, wide-mouth dish so multiple kittens can join in if possible. It really only takes one kitten to “get it,” and the rest will slowly follow.
  3. I begin by leaving out a dish with just water and a dish that I refresh at each feeding with whatever formula is in the bottle.
  • I will not offer the bottle at feeding time. Instead, I sit on the floor with a towel on my lap and slowly introduce each kitten’s muzzle to the milk saucer with gentle nudging. They will come up shaking and licking their face. This allows them to taste the liquid, and some will begin to drink. Others require more time.
  • I also always offer tiny kitten kibble, pre-moistened with water, starting around 4.5–5 weeks of age.
  • If they figure out how to drink from a dish, I will gradually introduce a kitten mousse-style food into the milk, thickening it slowly over the following days. The goal is to decrease the milk-to-canned food ratio over time.
  • I always offer the bottle after their exploration into self-eating. This reassures them that there is still a reward and helps decrease frustration and stress. Over time, they will gradually drink less and less from the bottle. Before you know it, you will no longer be offering one.
  • Some kittens will be stubborn and test you. Do not let this bother you — they will wean. Be patient and keep repeating the process. Always end on a positive note with snuggles. This teaches kittens that human interaction is loving and safe.
  • There is no single right way to wean a kitten; this is simply one method that works well for me.
  • Sometimes a gentle yet firm nudge is needed, and you may have to withhold the bottle for kittens approaching the six-week mark. You can still end on a positive note with gentle pets and cuddling.
  • If possible, make sure you have a Feliway plug-in in their room during this process.

Socialization

Orphan kittens can develop a reputation for being some of the most difficult cats as they mature into adulthood. There are many reasons for this—some genetic, some in utero—but some behavioral patterns may also be associated with improper socialization and development at key points during a kitten’s growth that we, as fosters, may fail to recognize or provide.

The most crucial socialization period in the life of a cat is between 2 and 9 weeks of age. The people, animals, sights, sounds, smells, and environments a kitten is exposed to during this critical period will shape their adult personality. Raising orphan kittens is not only a significant commitment from a care and feeding standpoint, but also from a socialization and behavioral development perspective. Done thoughtfully, it can mean a lifetime of happiness.

Wash your hands, have others wash their hands, handle kittens often, pass them to trusted friends, allow them to interact with other healthy kittens, and introduce them to children, dogs (if safe), and other cats (if safe). Expose them to car rides, outdoor sounds, washing machine noises, hair dryers, and everyday household activity. The list goes on. During this period, kittens learn what is safe, what is familiar, and what should be approached with caution.

Understanding normal kitten development allows fosters to provide the appropriate environment for a healthy kitten to mature into a well-adjusted adult. This results in a more socially developed cat for their forever family and helps reduce mismatched homes, behavioral challenges, and surrender to shelters.

If possible, avoid raising “singleton” kittens. Even in the most attentive foster programs, single kittens often experience behavioral development delays. If you commit to an orphan kitten, consider committing to two. During kitten season, you are often able to locate another kitten of similar age.

Paternal factors also play a role. Paternal genetic influences have a strong impact on a kitten’s personality. If the sire was bold and friendly, the kittens often show similar tendencies. If the sire was shy around humans, the kittens may inherit that tendency as well. In these cases, it becomes the foster’s role to gently expose the kitten to a variety of people using calm, quiet handling to increase the likelihood of positive human socialization.


Sensitive periods in a kitten’s quick developments:

Neonatal (0–7 days) — Kittens are totally dependent on mom (you) and require food, warmth, cleanliness, and tactile stimulation (touch, especially to urinate and defecate). Kittens have a tremendous olfactory (sense of smell) ability. This is how they find the mother’s teats to nurse and, by day 4, they will often find a favorite teat. If a young neonate has nasal congestion, it will likely have difficulty eating or suckling and should be seen by a veterinarian. As early as 2 days of age, kittens can show avoidance of offensive odors. This is key to understanding one reason odors may trigger aggressive behavior in some cats later in life. Kittens at this age have a strong suckle reflex when touched near the mouth, and when touched on the face, they will turn toward the side that was touched. You can gently touch a newly awakened kitten’s mouth to stimulate the suckle reflex at feeding time.

Transitional (7–14 days) — Kittens begin to raise their bodies off the ground and move with a slow, paddling gait. The eyes and ears will begin to open. Hearing is present as early as day 5, but during this period, kittens begin to orient toward sound.

Socialization period (14 days to 7 weeks) — Kittens begin to explore their environment and learn what they like and dislike. Visual orienting and following develop around week 3, while obstacle avoidance develops between weeks 4 and 5. Brief episodes of running may begin around 5 weeks of age. Kittens use all patterns of gait by 6–7 weeks of age and develop the ability to land on their feet between 3 and 6 weeks of age. By this time, they should begin moving away from their nesting box and forming social relationships with other animals and people in their environment.

  • Social play with mom and siblings begins around 4 weeks. In orphan kittens without siblings, this play is often redirected toward the foster’s hands and movements, which is why wand play should begin early. Social play peaks between 6 and 7 weeks and remains high until approximately 16 weeks of age. Weaning begins around 4 weeks and is typically complete by 6–7 weeks, though suckling behaviors may continue for several weeks afterward, which is normal.
  • Prey play begins around 4 weeks of age and is essential for the development of a satisfied cat, as cats are direct descendants of the North African wildcat (Felis silvestris). Teaching appropriate prey play beginning around 4 weeks is important for healthy development. I typically use a feather wand and allow the kitten to follow (stalk), reach (pounce), bite (kill), and then disengage. A satisfied kitten will often lie down afterward to groom and rest. This type of normal play helps prevent aggression toward sibling cats, humans, and household items later in life. Prey play is essential for lifelong feline happiness. Kittens weaned early may show higher rates of play, especially prey play.
  • By 5–6 weeks of age, kittens should be using the litter box consistently, scratching and covering appropriately. Fearful reactions to new stimuli may begin around 6 weeks of age.

Juvenile (7 weeks to 6–12 months) — Kittens are preparing to disperse from their home range. They engage readily in play by 7–8 weeks of age, and social play remains high between 4 and 16 weeks. Around 12 weeks of age, social play begins to take on predatory characteristics. Object play may occur either socially or independently.

Social maturity, defined as the development of adult social behavior and interactions with other cats, is fully reached between 36 and 48 months of age. This includes territorial defense behaviors.

Socialization is not the same as domestication. However, it is strongly tied to the neurologic and physical development of the kitten. This process continues throughout life, and how kittens socialize early on—especially between weeks 2 and 7—will influence how they socialize with new individuals as adults. Hand-raised kittens often develop social interactions with other cats more slowly, but with patience, this can absolutely be achieved.

Recent studies show that orphan kittens are no more likely to display fear-based aggression toward humans or other animals when raised in a home with other cats and provided with wand-type toys to stimulate play and chase behaviors.

Kittens that are held and gently stroked daily from birth through the first weeks of life tend to open their eyes earlier and begin exploring sooner. They also approach unfamiliar toys and people more readily and are slower to develop avoidance behaviors. With sufficient human handling, the presence of another cat during social development, and the use of wand-type toys (to reinforce that human hands are not toys), many behavioral challenges can be minimized or prevented.

Congratulations on your willingness to take on one of the most enriching and rewarding experiences in caring for the animal kingdom. If you can remember the most important thing of all—to love your kitten—you are well on your way to successfully accomplishing everything else. Do not hesitate to reach out to your veterinarian or a trusted kitten expert with any questions.

Cats and kittens are highly sensitive to energy. They seem able to sense our nerves, anxieties, and emotional states. I find it incredibly valuable to center myself before handling my kittens. When I do, they nurse better, receive a calm and loving presence, and learn that human interaction is safe and stable. Many of us have experienced moments where frustration leads to tension between cats, difficulty getting an orphan to nurse, or even the challenge of medicating our own cat who suddenly disappears. Perhaps this subtle energetic communication is what makes bonding with cats so rewarding and fascinating.

Be patient. Not all kittens follow a strict protocol, and that is okay. Ask for help when needed—and remember to breathe!